OBEDIENCE COMMANDS

OBEDIENCE COMMANDS
The five basic obedience commands every dog should know are sit, stay, down, come and heel. Follow these simple, step-by-step instructions, and keep in mind that it won’t be as easy as flipping a switch. Every dog is different and there are lots of training methods to try. Below are some basic guidelines that have helped many people but if your dog needs something a little different, seek the assistance of a qualified dog behavior professional. Most dogs are easily trained, once you know how.

Sit
You can start working on the ‘sit’ command with puppies as young as seven weeks of age.

• Start by getting your dog’s attention, then using his name and the command. "Max, sit."
• Gently help your dog to the sitting position. Be kind about it – he’s learning, not being bad.
• Praise your dog or give a treat, like a kibble of food, when he sits, even if you had to help him at first. You want to teach him that sitting is always a good thing.
• Repeat the exercise often. One or two five-minute training sessions each day can work wonders.
• Once learned, have your dog sit for everything he wants from a treat to a door opening. This will make you a good leader while also getting in plenty of real-life practice.

Stay
You've taught your puppy to sit but he doesn’t do it for very long. In fact, most of the time it is just long enough to earn a kibble. Now you need to train your dog to stay in one place.

• Once you've got your puppy sitting, put your hand in front of his face and give the command. "Max, stay."
• Slowly turn and step in front of him.
• If your puppy gets up, reposition him into the sit.
• After a few seconds, praise him calmly, then say, “Okay”. Let him get up.
• Repeat until your pup stays put consistently.
• Now, try stepping back a step or two. If your puppy follows you, begin again, gradually increasing the distance.
• Repeat until you can move several feet with your puppy staying in the sit position.
• Remember to praise, but do it calmly. Too much enthusiasm excites him and makes itdifficult to stay.

Down
Once you've taught your dog to ‘sit,’ ‘down’ follows naturally. This command can come in very handy when your dog is headed where he shouldn’t go.

• Start with your dog in the sit position.
• Hold a treat or piece of food in front of your dog's nose.
• Move the food down to the ground, just in front of his front paws then pull the kibble slowly out along the ground, as if you are drawing an ‘L’ with the kibble. With food in your hand, your dog is sure to follow.
• As your dog lies down, say “down” and praise him.
• Repeat often.

Come
‘Come’ is essential for every dog. It is one of the key ways to keep your dog under control, safe and out of trouble.

• Put your dog’s leash on.
• Walk a few steps away with a treat or toy. You my need to put your dog in a ‘sit’ and ‘stay’ to get away.
• Turn and give the ‘come’ command, and praise! Use the lead to bring your dog to you if necessary.
• Reward and praise your dog when he gets to you.
• Start extending the distance and remove the leash when your dog seems to have it.
• Don't scold or use a threatening tone -- he may think you're angry. If you’re upset, coming to you will be the last thing he wants to do. Only give the command once. Dogs learn exactly what we teach them. So if you say “Come-come-come-come” then your dog will think the command is “Come-come-come-come.”

Heel
You see it all too often - a dog leading its owner. Don't let it be you. Teach your dog to walk at your side using the ‘heel’ command.

• If you can, burn off excess energy by playing with your dog before your walk.
• Begin by saying your dog's name and ‘heel’ and reeling him in so his right shoulder is in line with your left hip.
• Give him slack gradually. When he pulls forward, give the command and take sharp right. When your dog finds himself behind you, he'll run to catch up.
• Praise him warmly when he catches up.
• Guard against boredom by keeping your dog busy. Talk to him, have him sit, stay, lie down.
• If he forges ahead, stop and make him sit. Resume the walk and repeat the sit as needed.
• You may also work with him in small clockwise circles. This encourages him to pay attention.
• Many people need to take a training class or two to really get ‘heel’ down. A fun, well-run class is a great way to socialize and train your companion.
  

Potty Training

Potty Training

At 7 weeks your puppy is too young to have good control of its bowels, and will most likely have several accidents, but you can start training this early and maybe your pup will be well trained in a few months. Really though, your puppy should be expected to have accidents for a few more months. He/she isn't mature enough to be able to completely control these functions yet.

Puppies are born with an instinct to keep their beds clean, and a crate builds on that instinct. When the puppy is confined to the crate for the night, he can gradually develop better bowel and bladder control. Of course, that means that you must get the puppy out of the crate and outside as soon, and as often, as he needs to go.

One of the most common mistakes dog owners make is giving their dog too much freedom too soon. Most dogs don't want to take the time to go outside to relieve themselves, especially if the family is inside.

• If you have a new puppy, try the puppy pads with the scent built in to attract the puppy to the pad. I would layer it between newspaper and put it by the door which I eventually want the pup to use to go out. Use a plastic trash bag underneath if you have carpet.
• Every time your puppy wakes up from a nap immediately take him/her outside to go. Just like us they have to go after a long sleep. This works wonders to save on accidents.
• When your pup eats his digestive system stimulates him/her to have a bowel movement within 5-20 minutes. Take the pup out starting at 5 minutes and stay out with him until he has a movement. This will help you determine when he/she will need to go after feeding time.
• As you stand around waiting for your pup to eliminate keep repeating a phrase. This will work later on as a "bathroom" command. I used "hurry up"... mostly 'cause I was standing outside in my bathrobe during the middle of Winter.
• Find your pup's signal. Each one of my chis has his/her own signal that he/she uses to let us know when they have to go out. When you find your chi's signal, and this will take a lot of observation, you will have achieved the most important step.
• Use touch, sounds and affection as the "reward" for a job well done. Otherwise your pet will be asking to go outdoors just to get a food treat.
• NEVER rub your chi's nose in his/her feces or urine. This is an old and outdated cruel method. Do not HIT your puppy. This may cause him tobecome rebellious and you will have a chi that will mess in the house.

 

The Chihuahua is the smallest breed of dog in the world.

Chihuahua

The Chihuahua is the smallest breed of dog in the world and was named after the state of Chihuahua in Mexico. Chihuahuas are graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with a saucy expression. Two distinct breed types, one with a long coat of soft texture, the other with a short coat. Identical otherwise, both can be whelped in the same litter. Adored for their small size, the Chihuahua is a bright eyed, dainty dog who is perfect for apartment living. Most breeders recommend adopting a Chihuahua puppy between the ages of 4 - 12 months as they will be more mature and agile and not so apt for injury.

Height: 6 - 9 inches
Weight: 2 - 6 lbs.

Colors: Any color or mixture.
Coat: Long: Long, soft to touch, slight waviness is permissible. Short: Short, dense, soft to touch.

Temperament: Chihuahuas are bold, playful
With Children: Yes, If children are gentle.
With Pets: Yes, lives happily with others.
Special Skills: Family pet.

Watch-dog: Very High
Guard-dog: Very Low

Care and Training: Short haired Chihuahua should be brushed gently or wiped with a damp cloth. The long haired Chihuahua should be brushed daily with a soft bristle brush. Bathe only when necessary. Check ears regularly and keep nails trimmed. Should be socialized early. Minimal exercise is required for both variety of Chihuahuas.
Learning Rate: High

Activity: Moderate
Living Environment: Must live indoors, but enjoys outdoor activity

Health Issues: Eye problems, collapsing trachea and dislocating kneecaps.

Life Span: Well into teen years
Litter Size: 1 - 4

Country of Origin: Mexico
History: Discovered in Mexico about 100 years ago. The true origins of their ancestors is still a mystery. It is said they were bred from the small dogs know among the Toltecs of Mexico in the ninth century. Others believed the Chihuahua was the sacred dog of the Aztecs and thirdly there is a possibility they may have existed in Egypt some 3,000 years ago.

First Registered by the AKC: 1904
AKC Group: Toy
Class: Toy
Registries: AKC, CKC, FCI (Group 9), KC (GB)

Hyprocephalus And The Molera

Hyprocephalus And The Molera

Hyprocephalus and the molera are not one in the same and should not be confused as so.  The molera, a soft spot on the top of your Chihuahua's head is similar to that of a new born human and is normal.  This trait is unique to the Chihuahua breed.  Hyprocephalus is the accumulation of excess cerebrospinal fluid in the brain and is not at all normal, nor is it curable.  It is also known as 'water on the brain.'

When fluid accumulates on the brain, it compresses the brain against the skull.  A Chihuahua puppy can be born with this disorder, or it can be caused by a brain infection.  

Check the molera, making certain it is no larger than the tip of your little finger and that there is no swelling, bulging or throbbing, although, dog's with a normal molera can still be hydrocephalic. Check carefully on the sides of the head for  bone as well. Make sure there is no more then one molera, as this is not normal.  Other signs include wide-set eyeballs, blindness, abnormal behavior, waling in circles, slowness (mental and physical), seizures, slow growing puppies and uncoordination.  These signs may come and go or become worse over time.  Concerns should only be answered by a licensed veterinarian.

Diagnosis is based on the signs in conjunction with techniques to image the brain. In dogs with a fontanel (molera), ultrasound can be performed by scanning through the fontanel to detect the excessive accumulation of fluid within the brain.  Unfortunately, there is no cure for hydrocephalus.  Mild cases can be treated with steroids to reduce pressure or with a shunt to divert fluid from the brain to the abdomen.  Severe cases in puppies usually cause death before 4 months of age.

For more information contact your Veterinarian.

Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia is a condition where the blood sugar level drops to an extremely low level, causing 'sugar shock.'  When levels of glucose in the blood drop rapidly, the body and brain are deprived of essential nutrients.  Results are weakness and seizures.  Usually this is due to stress, illness, lack of food, or by using up stored energy without it being replenished. Small Chihuahuas can be prone to this because they have such small digestive systems.

To prevent low blood sugar, small Chihuahuas should have small frequent meals and plenty of time to rest.  Another preventative for this is to feed your dog Nutrical, available from your Veterinarian or your local pet store. Nutrical gives your dog the vitamins needed with a single inch strip in the morning and in the evening.  Vanilla yogurt mixed in their food is also another good source. 

There is not much warning when a dog is experiencing a hypoglycemic episode.  The dog will appear tired, weak and sleepy in the beginning.  The dog may also fall over, become unconscious or begin to seizure. When this happens rub Nutrical or Nutristat on the dog's gums and the roof of it's mouth, so that it is absorbed in the dog's blood stream.  Another good source of sugar is honey or Karo syrup.  Keep the dog warm in a blanket or with a heating pad.  You should see improvement in 15 to 30 minutes with the intake of sugar.  However, it is always recommended to bring the dog to the veterinarian, as they may be in need of a glucose IV.

Each time a Chihuahua is threatened by hypoglycemia it takes much more to bring them out of it the next time. It is much easier to prevent hypoglycemia by always providing a readily available sugar supply, frequent meals and a warm bed, then to have to treat it once it happens.

Hypoglycemia can also be hereditary, so be sure to know about your dog's lineage.

Information from the American Kennel Club

Information from the 
American Kennel Club

Chihuahua
Toy Group
Breed Standard

General Appearance
A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Weight A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds. Proportion The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.

Head
A well rounded "apple dome" skull, with or without molera. Expression Saucy. Eyes Full, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. (Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible.) Ears Large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears. Muzzle Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean. Nose Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink nose permissible. Bite Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot bite, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault. Disqualifications Broken down or cropped ears.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders. Topline Level. Body Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much "barrel-shaped"). Tail Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back, with tip just touching the back. (Never tucked between legs.) Disqualifications Cropped tail, bobtail.

Forequarters
Shoulders Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving a free play at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back. (Never down or low.) This gives a chestiness, and strength of forequarters, yet not of the "Bulldog" chest. Feet A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Pasterns Fine.

Hindquarters
Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. The feet are as in front.

Coat
In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry. In Long Coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly curly, with undercoat preferred. Ears-Fringed. (Heavily fringed ears may be tipped slightly if due to the fringes and not to weak ear leather, never down.) Tail-Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred. Disqualification-In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Color
Any color-Solid, marked or splashed.

Gait
The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.

Temperament
Alert, with terrier-like qualities.

DISQUALIFICATIONS
Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Broken down or cropped ears.
Cropped tail, bobtail.
In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Approved September 11, 1990
Effective October 30, 1990

Do your Chihuahuas like Digging holes?

Digging

Is your puppy turning your yard into a minefield? If you answered yes, discovering the reason why your puppy is digging up your lawn will help you deal most appropriately with his behavior.

Why puppies dig:

Fun: Puppies dig because they have a lot of energy, and digging helps them expend some of it. If your puppy is digging to have fun and expend energy, you can discourage his digging by providing other outlets for him. Keep your puppy busy and active by playing games with him, and taking him for walks. Keeping your puppy active and occupied will help use the energy he formerly used for digging.

Nesting: A hole in the ground may provide a comfortable nest for your puppy. On a hot day the cold soil may also provide relief from the heat. Help your puppy keep cool by providing fresh water for him to drink, a shady area for him to retreat to, and maybe even a small plastic wading pool for him to cool off in.

Escape: Is your puppy digging because he has discovered that it provides an escape from the yard? Ensure that your fence is in good shape so as not to make the escape easier. If your neighbors welcome your puppy with treats ask them to stop. The treats may be encouraging your puppy to visit them, perhaps by digging an escape route under your fence! Supervision is the best prevention.

Fright: Is your puppy digging because he is frightened at being alone? Let your puppy know that you are not abandoning him when he is left alone for a short time. Leave your puppy for a few minutes, and then return with a treat for him. Do this again, letting the interval you are out of sight last a little longer. After doing this a few times, your puppy will understand that just because you are out of sight doesn't mean you have abandoned him. Of course, your puppy should never be left unsupervised for long periods.