Friday, June 30, 2006

Treating and preventing ear infections in your Chihuahua

Treating and preventing ear infections Symptoms

You may notice your puppy scratching his ears a lot or shaking his head like he's in pain. Or you may find, when you're playing with your puppy or grooming him, that he has debris or unpleasant-smelling discharge in his ear canal or on his ear flaps, or that his ears are red and hot. All of these are signs that your puppy likely has an ear infection.

Ear infections are just as painful for puppies as they are for us. Usually, puppies get ear infections in the external ear, and these need to be treated right away so they don't go deeper into the ear and cause serious damage.

Treatment

You'll need to take your puppy to the vet if you suspect he has an ear infection. Depending on how serious the infection is and what part of the ear it's in, the vet will either prescribe antibiotics or simply clean the ear out with solutions.

The sooner your puppy's ear infection is treated, the less chance there is that it will spread from the outer or middle ear into the inner ear. Inner ear infections are more serious and harder to get rid of.

Pay attention to whether your puppy's symptoms go away or persist. One course of antibiotics may not be enough to eliminate the problem. If your puppy still seems sick, take him back to the vet. He may need a longer course of antibiotics or a change to a different drug to completely get rid of the infection.

Causes

Most ear infections are caused by an excess of moisture in the ear, which creates a breeding ground for yeast and bacteria.

High humidity, and getting wet ears from swimming, can create moisture. Depending on your puppy's breed and ear shape, he may also be more susceptible to getting ear infections. Floppy-eared breeds such as Labrador Retrievers, Bloodhounds, and Cocker Spaniels are more prone to getting ear infections. This is because if the ears hang down, they block air from easily getting in to dry any moisture.

Other triggers of ear infections in puppies include:
  • Use of ear drops or cleansers that irritate the ears
  • Health problems such as hormonal imbalance, allergies, or food intolerance
Prevention

So what can you do to help your puppy avoid getting an ear infection? First, if he has floppy ears or likes to swim, pay particular attention to his ears. After your puppy goes for a swim, dry his ears with a cotton ball.

In all cases, get your puppy used to having his ears checked and cleaned at least once a week. Carefully wipe his external ears with a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil or water. Make sure the ear canal is clean, with no inflammation, no unpleasant odors, and no redness. Don't probe too deeply – just check the outside part of the ear, and lift up the flaps to check for redness and odors.

Your vet can be a good source of advice on how to prevent ear infections in your puppy. He or she will show you how to clean the ear canal of hair, debris, and ear wax.

Friday, June 23, 2006

How to “Pill” Your Dog

How to “Pill” Your Dog

Your dog had a minor surgery and needs some antibiotics to ward off infection. Maybe you’ve never had to “pill” your dog before, so the vet takes care of the first dose before you leave the clinic. But soon enough, your turn comes.

A bitter pill to swallow!

You wrap the pill in something your dog loves and he gobbles it right up. How easy is that? Simple! What's the problem? Well, a few hours later you find the melted pill on the kitchen floor. He ate the treat, but spit out the bitter pill, oblivious to its medicinal purpose…for some dogs (and for some owners), it's not as easy as it looks!

If possible, start early

"Pilling" your dog always works out best if you learn how to do it while he's a puppy. Because, healthy as he may be, over a dog's lifetime, there will undoubtedly be many occasions when administering pills will be necessary. However, whether you have a puppy or an adult or mature dog, everyone can learn to pill any dog with a few simple tips and techniques, even if your nature tends to be on the squeamish side.

Tips & techniques

Here are a few guidelines, ranging from easiest to hardest, to help you get those pills down:

  • Play "Hide the Pill"

    Dogs love a treat. And even if the instructions say to give the medication on an empty stomach, the little bit of food it takes to pill him is usually fine. But be sure to check with your veterinarian first. Whether it's peanut butter, some soft cheese, or a bite of hotdog, you'll need something bite-sized and "moldable." There are companies that make edible "pockets" in various sizes, in which to place your dog's pill. The "pocket" is then squished closed around the pill. Essentially, it's a safe and simple way to medicate your pet. Some dogs, like the one in the example above, choose to eat the yummy bit and spit out the pill. Some dogs are extremely adept at this, so you should always open your dog's mouth and see if the pill is hiding in there somewhere and check the floor around him. One helpful tip is to occasionally offer just the pocket as a treat when a pet is healthy. This will increase the likelihood of him taking the treat and swallowing it with a pill inside when pilling is necessary.

  • Try the Vet's Method

    This method is sometimes harder for squeamish owners and/or fearful dogs. But with practice, it's extremely effective. When you've mastered it, it's over in a matter of seconds; your dog won't realize what's happening.

    1. Face the same direction as your dog.
    2. Straddle your dog and open the top of his mouth around the muzzle with one hand.
    3. Tip his head back very slightly.
    4. With your free hand, place the pill as far back in the throat as possible, on the back of the tongue, toward the center.
    5. Hold your dog's mouth closed with one hand while using the other to rub his throat to promote swallowing.
    6. Praise your dog, and then open his mouth to make sure the pill has actually gone down.
  • Use a "Pill Pen"

    There are a variety of devices that resemble a pen, which you can buy in most pet stores, or in online catalogs. You load it up with a pill and administer. These work best for small dogs and cats.

  • Go to Your Vet

    Of course, your veterinarian can offer hands-on tips to help you pill your dog. But if you try everything and it fails, you can book regular times with your vet, and they'll pill your dog for you during the course of the medication. It may be a bit of an inconvenience, but it'll get the job done!

Sunday, June 18, 2006

Health topics that begin with “D”

Health topics that begin with “D” Dental formula, Diarrhea, Dietary fiber, Diets – Veterinary, Dog sport, Dressing Dental formula

The dental formula describes the number and range of teeth for a puppy or an adult dog. And here is where it gets a bit scientific: Teeth can be divided into 4 groups: canines, incisors, premolars and molars. A puppy's temporary teeth consist of: Upper jaw - 6 incisors, 2 canines, 3 premolars. Lower jaw - 6 incisors, 2 canines, 3 premolars.

An adult dog, after he’s lost his puppy teeth, has: 3 incisors per quadrant, 1 canine per quadrant, 4 premolars per quadrant and additionally 2 molars (cheek teeth) per quadrant in the maxilla and 3 molars per quadrant in the mandibula.

Loss of teeth (often due to genetic causes) can lead to exceptions from the above dental formula.

Diarrhea

Diarrhea is an increase in frequency, fluidity or volume of feces.

In dogs, diarrhea has various possible causes: infectious diseases, allergies, intolerance, intestinal activity disorders, and many others.

In puppies, the condition is particularly serious, because the puppy can quickly become dehydrated – which can in turn lead to organ damage, even death.

In puppies, the causes of diarrhea are primarily infectious diseases, worms, incorrect feeding, or stress due to a change in environment. If your puppy is suffering from diarrhea consult your veterinarian sooner rather than later.

Dietary fiber

Raw fiber is contained in vegetables and grain. Fiber is necessary in food products in order to stimulate bowel movements (peristalsis) and thereby ensure good digestion.

Diets-Veterinary

A special diet can be used as a sole therapy for a health problem or it can support another form of therapy, such as chemotherapy. Use of a diet will be recommended by a vet after diagnosis of an illness, and can be used to support the affected organ. Diets are used, solely or in combination with other therapies, to treat the following conditions, among others:

  • Kidney diseases
  • Liver disorders
  • Obesity
  • Cardiac disorders
  • Diabetes melletius
  • Diarrhea

If your puppy has a health problem your vet may prescribe a diet. If this happens the diet should be followed exactly.

Dog sport

This is beneficial for dogs and their owners, as sport is a way of spending your leisure time naturally with “man’s best friend”. Sports such as agility, sheepdog trials, fly-ball, and many others enable dog owner and dog to work and play together. But care must be taken with the amount of exercise puppies and young dogs get, as they shouldn't be over-exercised, especially large breeds. Their bodies are growing, so the dog sport chosen should be appropriate to the dog’s developmental stage. Contact with other dogs is of particular benefit to a dog’s development, particularly his social development.

Dressing

A dressing serves to protect a wound, to cover an area of the body or to fix a part of the body in position. Materials for dressings include: bandages, cellulose, gauze, cotton batting or similar things. For fixing a limb in position, materials such as splints or cuffs are used.

Saturday, June 10, 2006

BRINGING HOME A NEW PUPPY

BRINGING HOME A NEW PUPPY

When adopting a new puppy it’s important to prepare your home in anticipation of their arrival. Similar to baby proofing a home, puppy proofing is needed for their safety and your sanity. Puppies are particularly curious and energetic and don't always know what to avoid. The first safety consideration is keeping chemicals & toxins away your puppies reach. Such items may include household cleaners, specific types of plants, alcohol, chocolate, and substances like antifreeze. Antifreeze is particularly dangerous to dogs. Even a small amount can be extremely toxic or fatal for your dog. Dogs & Puppies don't realize the danger, it's up to you to protect them. Another safety concern is electrical & power leads. Try to keep power leads hidden from your dog. Puppies will chew on power leads creating an obvious safety risk. Fragile or breakable items are things to keep an eye out for. An excited puppy can knock a favourite vase or frame off a table with one wag of their tail. Broken glass or ceramics may expose your puppy to injury from sharp edges & the destruction of your valuables can be avoided. It’s a good idea to keep sharp objects stored safely away from your dog. Keep in mind that puppies don't always behave as you wish (even when they become dogs). You may find your puppy outside or on a table if you turn your back for too long. This is another good reason to keep hazardous items stored safely. Some time spent protecting your puppy before their arrival can greatly increase the fun and enjoyment you have with them once they arrive.

The formative period for a dog occurs in its first year of life. The first few months account for a large part of this development. When puppies are born they are very reliant on their mother. Born with their eyes and ears sealed shut, they huddle near each other and their mother for warmth and food. During the first three weeks, puppies sleep 90 percent of the time and eat 10 percent. Healthy puppies are born pink and firm and gain weight rapidly. During the first month the puppy starts to develop their senses. Their eyes will open, teeth will start to come through and they will begin standing, walking, barking & wagging their tail.

Puppies begin socialization shortly before their second month. In the beginning they are primarily influenced by their littermates. Through playing and interacting, puppies learn about themselves and their surroundings. This type of learning continues for several months. Puppies are ready to be adopted around 8 to 10 weeks of age. At this point people are influencing them as much if not more than the other puppies. This is a good time to start the basics of training such as house training, as they are starting to gain physical coordination. They will also experience fear for the first time.

Between three and six months puppies will begin to develop pack behaviour. They will start to see their place within their social system. They will also start to develop their adult teeth and begin teething. Between six & eight months puppies will be influenced primarily by pack/family members & will chew as a way of exploring their territory. Most breeds will physically mature during this period, becoming an adult. Around 24 months (2 years) is the average most breeds will mentally mature.

Thursday, June 8, 2006

Do Dogs Feel Love?

Do Dogs Feel Love?

We feel tremendous love for our dogs, and our dogs sure seem to love us. But is a dog really capable of emotions? Or are we just projecting our feelings onto our dogs?

Scientists avoid the subject because part of what sets humans apart from the animals is our ability to experience feelings. To say that animals actually have feelings, in the same way we do, would change everything – perhaps disrupt our entire position and standing in the animal kingdom.

However, any dog owner knows that dogs love completely and have a greater capacity for love than most people. If one were to describe the main characteristics of a dog, they would have to be:
1. strong affection
2. warm attachment
3. unselfish loyalty and benevolent concern for others

Wait a minute – those are the Merriam-Webster Dictionary definitions of love. Probably why the author of Dogs Never Lie About Love, Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson writes, “dogs are love.” So there isn’t a question of whether dogs love, the mystery is how they have such an enormous capacity for it. Dogs who are neglected or abused still show love for their human and wag their tails in hope of a little affection.

Dogs taken from abusive situations hold no grudges toward the human race. A half an ounce of kindness from a new person results in an abundance of affection from the formerly mistreated dog. Humans rarely have the capacity to so completely forgive and love under those circumstances.

Probably the biggest reason the dog has become man’s best friend is because we know that when it comes to love, a dog can always outdo us. The highest form of love, agape love, which is completely unconditional, is something that people often have to work at or grow into. Agape love seems to come naturally between parent and child, but it’s more difficult between husband and wife, and harder still between friends. To love someone regardless of what wrongs they have done you is very difficult for humans.

A dog, however, is born with an endless capacity for agape love, and doesn’t even have to work at it. You can be a complete grouch, ignore your dog, and refuse him your love. When you decide you’re ready to be sociable again, your dog doesn’t pay you back by ignoring you too. He’s just happy you’re there. More amazing still, is that the love that dogs and owners feel for each other lasts a lifetime. This is the ideal love humans strive for, but often fail at.

As Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson so beautifully writes in Dogs Never Lie About Love, “Learning to know somebody intimately is often the beginnings of dislike, sometimes even of contempt. Among humans, love often does not survive a growing acquaintance, but in a dog, love seems to grow with acquaintance, to get stronger, deeper. Even when fully acquainted with all our weaknesses, our treachery, our unkindness, the dog seems to love strongly – and this love is returned by most dog-loving humans. We, too, seem to love our dogs the more we get to know them. The bond grows between us and our dogs.”

This is why we need dogs. They do something for us that rarely a human companion can do. No matter how much you mess up your life, or how much wrong you do, no matter how many mistakes you make or how often you make them, regardless of your looks, income or social standing, your dog never judges you. He always thinks you are wonderful and loves you with all his heart.

Saturday, June 3, 2006

Having a puppy who runs into his crate on command is more than just a convenience - it can keep him

 Having a puppy who runs into his crate on command is more than just a convenience - it can keep him safe, too. For example, if a glass breaks in the kitchen, giving your puppy the "crate" command can keep him away from the broken glass until it has been cleaned up. Before you begin training, check to see that your puppy's crate doesn't slip or rattle against a hard floor. Both things can make a puppy nervous about approaching his crate. If necessary, put an old towel between the crate and your floor to keep it quiet and in one place. Start the training by getting your puppy's attention with a treat and tossing the treat into your puppy's crate. If your puppy leaps in after it, great! If your puppy doesn't rush into the crate right away be patient. After a few times of being rewarded for putting his head into the opening of the crate, your puppy should be more than happy to put one foot in, then two, and then you're on your way. Once you know your pup will go into the crate on his own, start using the cue word as you toss the treat into the crate. Read More...


Allergic to puppy?

If you develop an allergy to your puppy you may experience a number of symptoms including watery eyes, a runny nose or difficulty breathing, among others. These symptoms result from contact with your puppy's dander and saliva. Dander is the name for the tiny particles that are released from your puppy's hair and skin. These particles become airborne and stick to any surface they can, including furniture and walls. Your puppy's saliva does the same thing once it dries. If your puppy causes you to sneeze or cough this usually means that you also have an allergy to pollens or molds. You will also have an "allergy tolerance level." This means that a certain amount of allergens in your environment are bearable, and won't cause you an allergic reaction. However, if there are many allergens in your home then your puppy may be your "allergic breaking point." If you can limit your exposure to other allergens you may find that your puppy no longer causes you an allergic reaction. Read More...


Is a dog's mouth cleaner than a person's mouth?

Does your puppy lick your face in greeting? Some people like nothing better than being kissed by their puppy while others are uncomfortable with the practice. There are many interpretations of why your puppy might lick your face. It could be out of affection, subservience or to let you know he’s hungry. Most of us have heard it said that a puppy’s mouth is cleaner than a person’s mouth. This is not true. It’s another dog-myth. You may have noticed that some dogs have strange appetites. There are certain dogs who like nothing better than to snack on cat litter. So a dog’s mouth is not necessarily cleaner than a person’s mouth. However, unless he’s just eaten something that offends you there’s no need to avoid your puppy’s kiss. It won’t hurt you – psychologically it may even make you feel better. Read More...


Dear Dr Kate,

My 9 month old puppy is always chewing – plants, boxes, you name it. What can I do?

Puppies chew but when they chew on things you do not want them to chew it becomes a problem. Our Wilson was, and is, a chewer. I have put tabasco on our wicker, boxes and a couple of old suitcases to prevent him from destroying them. It has worked. Many puppies are chewers - one of the ways puppies explore their world is through their mouths. Keeping valuables out of your puppy’s reach and directing his teeth to approved chew toys can also help protect your valuables

Thursday, June 1, 2006

Methods of house training

Methods of house training

Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).

When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.

Puppy in cage Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.

Verbal cues

Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

When an 'accident' happens

One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.

Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor.

Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.

The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."

House Training Rule Number One: If you don't catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it!

In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy'snose into amistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom.

We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. We assumed that would be the case and have no intention of charging for those services. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes.

The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up "When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!" The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog.

If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the house training department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy.

The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy's training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man's office.

Feeding and house training

The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.

All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.

Little puppySpontaneous or submissive urination

Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.

Summary

Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.