Friday, December 15, 2006

AKC Champion Quality X-Tiny TeaCup Chihuahuas

AKC Champion Quality Tiny Chihuahuas Watauga, Texas 76148

Please e-mail me with any inquires you might have.

I've always been a dog lover, especially the little ones. I've been breeding toy dogs for over 18 years. I live in beautiful Watauga, Texas.

I raise happy, healthy, quality babies for you to love and become members of your family. All of my adult dogs meet the standard for the breed & are in good health. My facilities are clean and my dogs are well cared for and loved, I never have a problem with showing anyone around, there are no closed doors here.

I do not sell to pet stores or wholesale my puppies. I also do not sell to breeders that I have not checked out and approve of.

I work very hard to raise these little babies that I'm responsible for bringing into this world, I owe them the best possible homes. I want you to be happy with your new friend, but above all, I want the pup to be happy and safe in their new home.

I don't think a breeders part should stop when you leave with your puppy, I'll be there if you have any questions.

I will be happy to provide you with references.

Again, thank you for visiting and I look forward to speaking with you.

Sincerely,

Bianca
817-905-5127 Cell
817-503-0008 Home

Thursday, November 9, 2006

AKC X-Tiny Chihuahua Puppies

Your Chihuahua's Cold Tootsies Janaury 25, 2007


No matter how much fur Fido is wearing on his body, his feet have little protection from winter's chill. Here's how to spare his feet from the deep freeze.

Keep the hair on your pooch's feet trimmed short to discourage ice from clinging to them and making painful little frozen nuggets between his toes. And before going out, coat his paws with a small bit of something greasy that will stick to the pads, like petroleum jelly or a spray of cooking oil. When you return, wipe his feet, especially if your streets or sidewalks are salted. Or make winter walks even easier -- for both of you -- with insulated, slip-proof doggie booties.

Bianca

 

Is your pet in shape?

Chances are, your pet is at least a little overweight. As American's have gained weight over the years, so have our pets. The habits people get into that cause weight gain and obesity have been passed on to our pets. We pamper ourselves, we pamper our pets. We sit on the couch watching TV, our pets lounge on our laps. Not that there's anything wrong with pampering and leisure, but too much of a good thing can lead to too much of a bad thing – like fat and lethargy.

Most people who are overweight have pets that are overweight. And although we are very conscious of a few extra pounds on our own bodies, we tend not tobe aware of it on our pets. But even an extra pound or two on a dog or cat can put them at risk for certain health conditions and may even contribute to a shortened life span. So call your pet over and check her body condition. Here's how to tell if your pet is fit or fat:

Ideal Dog Body Condition

Have your dog stand up and look over him, viewing his back. You should be able to see a nicely defined waist behind the ribs. Look at him from the side. There should be a definite tuck of his tummy. If he's a short-haired dog, you should see an outline of his ribs. (If his ribs are highly visible, he's too thin.) However, if he's sausage shaped, no waistline, he's overweight. See Ideal Dog Body Condition diagram.

Ideal Cat Body Condition

Have your cat stand up and look over her, viewing her back. She should be sleek, with a slight indication of a waist behind her ribs. You should be able to feel her ribs, which should have a slight fat covering. From the side, her tummy should appear smaller than her chest. If your cat's shape is bowed out at all when viewed from above, or there's no differentiation between her chest and tummy when viewed from the side, she's overweight. See Ideal Cat Body Condition diagram.

So what do you do if your pet is overweight? It's very important to get your pet back into ideal body condition, to help him feel better and have more energy – and less chance of developing a weight-related health condition. Start with a few common-sense basics:

1. Make sure your pet's food is appropriate for your pet's life stage. If in doubt, ask your veterinarian.
2. Don't just fill your pet's bowl with food. Read the recommended serving amount on the package and measure the food to be sure you're feeding a proper amount. Remember: feed to maintain your pet's ideal body condition.
3. Avoid feeding table scraps, which are usually high in fat and calories.
4. If you give your pet dog or cat treats throughout the day, reduce the amount you feed at mealtime, to account for the additional calories of the treats.
5. Tie treats to activities – use as rewards and inspiration for play and exercise.
6. Make sure your pet gets enough exercise. Always check with your pet's veterinarian before starting a new and demandingactivity with your dog or cat. Here are some tips for dogs and cats.

Resist the Begging – Your Dog's Not Starving!

You may feed your dog more than he needs because he leads you to believe he's ravenously hungry so often. He wolfs down his food and is always eager for more. In fact, he'll never turn down food, and may go hunting for more in the garbage after he's had his fill. He isn't a bottomless pit, he's just acting on instinct. In the wild, dogs eat anything they can find, and as much of it as they can eat because they know it could be days before their next meal. So, you are not causing your dog to suffer hunger pangs when you don't let him have snacks between meals. Just realize, that if he were in the wild, he'd easily live off one meal a day and would be running around hunting all day to obtain it. Your dog's body is actually built for more exercise and less food than his house pet status provides!

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Saturday, October 28, 2006

Hello Puppy Buyers,

Hello Puppy Buyers,
 
I have 2 x-tiny long coat males available very soon. Their Birthday is September 29,06. One Tri Chocolate, One Tri Black, and adult weight will be around 2 pounds each. My Chihuahua babies are placed in loving forever-family homes. Prices start at 700.00 - 1200, I do not take checks or money orders, cash only please. I do not sell to pet stores, brokers, breeders, or wholesale my puppies. I work very hard to raise these little babies that I'm responsible for.

 

 
Thank you,
Bianca
817-905-5127 Cell
817-503-0008 Home

Sunday, October 22, 2006

The Chihuahuas need to send a letter to Kempthorne today – urge him to stop the wolf massacre!

Hi Chihuahua Lovers,

Gale Norton is gone, and with the arrival of a new Secretary of the Interior, there is renewed hope for Alaska's wolves. But with the state possibly only weeks away from a new aerial gunning season, we need your help to prevent the killing of hundreds of wolves. Send a letter to Kempthorne today –
urge him to stop the wolf massacre!

Saturday, October 14, 2006

Chihuahua Doggie Doses

Doggie Doses

Do you dread giving pills to your pooch? Try this approach.

First, place your palm on top of her snout, with your fingers on one side of her mouth and thumb on the other. Gently lift the lips and insert your index finger behind the long upper teeth on one side and your thumb behind the long upper teeth on the other side. You may need to squeeze lightly to accomplish this. When you do, pull her nose up and with your other hand drop the pill in the back of the mouth, behind the hump of the tongue. Close her mouth and immediately bring her nose back down, holding her mouth shut. She should swallow right away. If she doesn't, try blowing on her nose or squirting water into the side of her mouth with a turkey baster.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Teaching your Chihuahua puppy to take food gently!

Teaching your puppy to take food gently

Many pups don't know the strength of their own jaws. They enthusiastically grab anything offered without concerning themselves if a person's hand is in the way. This shouldn't be considered "aggressive behavior", but rather a "sin of enthusiasm".

There are many ways to teach your pup to be gentler, here are a few:

Hide food

Pups can be unintentionally rewarded for grabbing if they get a treat when they grab. So, to control this bad habit, you need to make sure your puppy does not earn a treat for grabbing.

Hold the treat in your fist and hold your hand out to your puppy. If he tries to grab it, wait. When he starts to lick or nuzzle you, then he can have his reward. Even a bold puppy can learn quickly that being gentle gets him what he wants.

Ouch!

If your pup is sensitive to your voice, a sudden yelping "Ouch!" along with withdrawing the treat can do the trick. Praise calmly and warmly when he is gentle, yelp and calmly take the treat away when he is not.

Some less sensitive pups are excited by this method, leaping up with tails wagging. If your pup responds this way, try another method. Puppy training is not "one size fits all." Always use the method that gets you the results you want without creating other problems.

"Easy"

One reason your puppy may grab at the food in your hand is that you may tend to suddenly pull your hand away when he moves toward the treat. This sudden move, often upward, may cause him to want to chase your hand as it moves away. While that reaction is understandable, it does not bring out the best in him.

Next time your pup moves to grab, move the food toward him. This should be a steady, smooth movement, not fast or harsh. If done properly, your pup will retreat as he follows the food. Since this is not what your puppy expects you to do, it can cause him to slow down and think. Done calmly, this is not an unpleasant process. It simply sets up a situation where your pup needs to move his head backward to get the food. That conditions him to think, "pull back" instead of "lunge toward".

Regardless of what method works best for you, work hard to praise your pup warmly and give him the treat when he is gentle. Puppies do what works and if being gentle earns him your affection and a bit of food, he'll be gentler in the future.


'Tis the season for sweets, but avoid giving these treats to your dog -- especially chocolate, which can be deadly.

Chocolate smells tasty and edible to most dogs, but poses a major poisoning risk because it contains theobromine, a substance that is toxic to dogs. It can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, vomiting, diarrhea, and even death. If you think your dog has eaten chocolate, call your vet or an animal poison control center immediately.

Friday, September 8, 2006

A pen for potty training your chihuahua

Tired of scooping up dog piles all over your yard? A pen for potty training may be the right solution for your Chihuahua.
Build a basic pen in your backyard and set up a schedule of mealtimes, playtimes, and naps for your pet. Allow time for potty breaks after each activity. Escort her out to the pen and give her a potty command, such as "Go now." Pick a short phrase, and use it every time you want her to go. Nothing happening within a few minutes? Walk away with her and try again 10 or 15 minutes later, or earlier if she starts sniffing around for a place to go. Be patient, and if she does have an accident, quickly take her out to the pen and praise her so she links going potty with that location.

Sunday, August 6, 2006

The Chihuahua "off" command!

The "off" command

Jumping behavior may have been cute when your puppy was younger but
it may not be as appealing in your 11 month old pup. Luckily, it's an
easy problem to control. Use the command word "off" as in "get off of
me, please." Don't use "down" as in "lie down". Using the same
command word for two different behaviors is confusing to your puppy.
The "off" command means your puppy should put his four feet on the
floor. If your puppy jumps up on you every time you enter the house
try to develop the desired behavior rather than eliminating the
unwanted behavior. For example: If you can train your pup to sit when
you come home, then the jumping problem is solved. Keep a favorite
treat outside your door. When you enter and your pup jumps tell
him "off" and then "sit". Guide your puppy into the sit position by
slowly raising the treat back and just above his head. When he sits,
give him a treat or toss a toy a short distance. Read More...

Grown up or not?

Your puppy is almost a year old. Does this mean he is all grown up?
Not necessarily. Puppies mature at different times depending on their
breed. For example, toy breeds are often physically mature at one
year of age, whereas a large breed, like a Great Dane or a Saint
Bernard, may still be very much "in process". Puppies are said to
grow from the outside in. This means that the body parts on the
outside - paws, tail and ears — grow to their adult size first, and
then, eventually, the rest of your puppy catches up. To get a rough
estimate of what your puppy will weigh as an adult take his weight at
four and a half months of age and double it. This will give you a
general idea of your puppy's potential size as an adult. However,
breeds that are the extremes in size, either giant or toy, may be
exceptions to this general rule. Read More...

Bursts of energy

Once or twice a day, most puppies kick up their heels and go a little
gleefully wild. This is especially true of older puppies who will
soon be leaving puppyhood behind. One label for this extra energy
burst is a FRAP, Frenetic Random Activity Period. FRAPs most often
happen in the early morning and early evening. Racing around the
house, rolling on the rugs and careening off of furniture are all
normal parts of the canine FRAP. Sometimes you may need to tone your
puppy's behavior down a bit for the sake of your house or puppy's
safety. A simple solution is letting your puppy run around inside a
fenced yard. If you don't have a fenced yard, close off the rooms
inside your home you want your puppy to stay out of and let him rip.
It's a good idea to keep large breed pups off of slippery surfaces as
sliding around can hurt your puppy. Avoid encouraging your puppy's
behavior by laughing at his antics.


Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Severe Arthritis In Chihuahuas

Severe Arthritis
  • Needs help getting up
  • Limps at all times
  • Is unwilling to climb stairs or jump
  • Has difficulty squatting to urinate or defecate
  • Shows loss of muscle in affected limb
  • Indicates pain when touched

    Moderate Arthritis

  • Has some stiffness when first gets up
  • Limps after regular exercise
  • Walks more slowly or has a slightly altered gait
  • Hops instead of runs
  • Hesitates to jump or climb stairs

    Mild Arthritis

  • Occassionally lame after hard exercise
  • For Severe Arthritis
    (can also be used for milder forms)*
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    Friday, June 30, 2006

    Treating and preventing ear infections in your Chihuahua

    Treating and preventing ear infections Symptoms

    You may notice your puppy scratching his ears a lot or shaking his head like he's in pain. Or you may find, when you're playing with your puppy or grooming him, that he has debris or unpleasant-smelling discharge in his ear canal or on his ear flaps, or that his ears are red and hot. All of these are signs that your puppy likely has an ear infection.

    Ear infections are just as painful for puppies as they are for us. Usually, puppies get ear infections in the external ear, and these need to be treated right away so they don't go deeper into the ear and cause serious damage.

    Treatment

    You'll need to take your puppy to the vet if you suspect he has an ear infection. Depending on how serious the infection is and what part of the ear it's in, the vet will either prescribe antibiotics or simply clean the ear out with solutions.

    The sooner your puppy's ear infection is treated, the less chance there is that it will spread from the outer or middle ear into the inner ear. Inner ear infections are more serious and harder to get rid of.

    Pay attention to whether your puppy's symptoms go away or persist. One course of antibiotics may not be enough to eliminate the problem. If your puppy still seems sick, take him back to the vet. He may need a longer course of antibiotics or a change to a different drug to completely get rid of the infection.

    Causes

    Most ear infections are caused by an excess of moisture in the ear, which creates a breeding ground for yeast and bacteria.

    High humidity, and getting wet ears from swimming, can create moisture. Depending on your puppy's breed and ear shape, he may also be more susceptible to getting ear infections. Floppy-eared breeds such as Labrador Retrievers, Bloodhounds, and Cocker Spaniels are more prone to getting ear infections. This is because if the ears hang down, they block air from easily getting in to dry any moisture.

    Other triggers of ear infections in puppies include:
    • Use of ear drops or cleansers that irritate the ears
    • Health problems such as hormonal imbalance, allergies, or food intolerance
    Prevention

    So what can you do to help your puppy avoid getting an ear infection? First, if he has floppy ears or likes to swim, pay particular attention to his ears. After your puppy goes for a swim, dry his ears with a cotton ball.

    In all cases, get your puppy used to having his ears checked and cleaned at least once a week. Carefully wipe his external ears with a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil or water. Make sure the ear canal is clean, with no inflammation, no unpleasant odors, and no redness. Don't probe too deeply – just check the outside part of the ear, and lift up the flaps to check for redness and odors.

    Your vet can be a good source of advice on how to prevent ear infections in your puppy. He or she will show you how to clean the ear canal of hair, debris, and ear wax.

    Friday, June 23, 2006

    How to “Pill” Your Dog

    How to “Pill” Your Dog

    Your dog had a minor surgery and needs some antibiotics to ward off infection. Maybe you’ve never had to “pill” your dog before, so the vet takes care of the first dose before you leave the clinic. But soon enough, your turn comes.

    A bitter pill to swallow!

    You wrap the pill in something your dog loves and he gobbles it right up. How easy is that? Simple! What's the problem? Well, a few hours later you find the melted pill on the kitchen floor. He ate the treat, but spit out the bitter pill, oblivious to its medicinal purpose…for some dogs (and for some owners), it's not as easy as it looks!

    If possible, start early

    "Pilling" your dog always works out best if you learn how to do it while he's a puppy. Because, healthy as he may be, over a dog's lifetime, there will undoubtedly be many occasions when administering pills will be necessary. However, whether you have a puppy or an adult or mature dog, everyone can learn to pill any dog with a few simple tips and techniques, even if your nature tends to be on the squeamish side.

    Tips & techniques

    Here are a few guidelines, ranging from easiest to hardest, to help you get those pills down:

    • Play "Hide the Pill"

      Dogs love a treat. And even if the instructions say to give the medication on an empty stomach, the little bit of food it takes to pill him is usually fine. But be sure to check with your veterinarian first. Whether it's peanut butter, some soft cheese, or a bite of hotdog, you'll need something bite-sized and "moldable." There are companies that make edible "pockets" in various sizes, in which to place your dog's pill. The "pocket" is then squished closed around the pill. Essentially, it's a safe and simple way to medicate your pet. Some dogs, like the one in the example above, choose to eat the yummy bit and spit out the pill. Some dogs are extremely adept at this, so you should always open your dog's mouth and see if the pill is hiding in there somewhere and check the floor around him. One helpful tip is to occasionally offer just the pocket as a treat when a pet is healthy. This will increase the likelihood of him taking the treat and swallowing it with a pill inside when pilling is necessary.

    • Try the Vet's Method

      This method is sometimes harder for squeamish owners and/or fearful dogs. But with practice, it's extremely effective. When you've mastered it, it's over in a matter of seconds; your dog won't realize what's happening.

      1. Face the same direction as your dog.
      2. Straddle your dog and open the top of his mouth around the muzzle with one hand.
      3. Tip his head back very slightly.
      4. With your free hand, place the pill as far back in the throat as possible, on the back of the tongue, toward the center.
      5. Hold your dog's mouth closed with one hand while using the other to rub his throat to promote swallowing.
      6. Praise your dog, and then open his mouth to make sure the pill has actually gone down.
    • Use a "Pill Pen"

      There are a variety of devices that resemble a pen, which you can buy in most pet stores, or in online catalogs. You load it up with a pill and administer. These work best for small dogs and cats.

    • Go to Your Vet

      Of course, your veterinarian can offer hands-on tips to help you pill your dog. But if you try everything and it fails, you can book regular times with your vet, and they'll pill your dog for you during the course of the medication. It may be a bit of an inconvenience, but it'll get the job done!

    Sunday, June 18, 2006

    Health topics that begin with “D”

    Health topics that begin with “D” Dental formula, Diarrhea, Dietary fiber, Diets – Veterinary, Dog sport, Dressing Dental formula

    The dental formula describes the number and range of teeth for a puppy or an adult dog. And here is where it gets a bit scientific: Teeth can be divided into 4 groups: canines, incisors, premolars and molars. A puppy's temporary teeth consist of: Upper jaw - 6 incisors, 2 canines, 3 premolars. Lower jaw - 6 incisors, 2 canines, 3 premolars.

    An adult dog, after he’s lost his puppy teeth, has: 3 incisors per quadrant, 1 canine per quadrant, 4 premolars per quadrant and additionally 2 molars (cheek teeth) per quadrant in the maxilla and 3 molars per quadrant in the mandibula.

    Loss of teeth (often due to genetic causes) can lead to exceptions from the above dental formula.

    Diarrhea

    Diarrhea is an increase in frequency, fluidity or volume of feces.

    In dogs, diarrhea has various possible causes: infectious diseases, allergies, intolerance, intestinal activity disorders, and many others.

    In puppies, the condition is particularly serious, because the puppy can quickly become dehydrated – which can in turn lead to organ damage, even death.

    In puppies, the causes of diarrhea are primarily infectious diseases, worms, incorrect feeding, or stress due to a change in environment. If your puppy is suffering from diarrhea consult your veterinarian sooner rather than later.

    Dietary fiber

    Raw fiber is contained in vegetables and grain. Fiber is necessary in food products in order to stimulate bowel movements (peristalsis) and thereby ensure good digestion.

    Diets-Veterinary

    A special diet can be used as a sole therapy for a health problem or it can support another form of therapy, such as chemotherapy. Use of a diet will be recommended by a vet after diagnosis of an illness, and can be used to support the affected organ. Diets are used, solely or in combination with other therapies, to treat the following conditions, among others:

    • Kidney diseases
    • Liver disorders
    • Obesity
    • Cardiac disorders
    • Diabetes melletius
    • Diarrhea

    If your puppy has a health problem your vet may prescribe a diet. If this happens the diet should be followed exactly.

    Dog sport

    This is beneficial for dogs and their owners, as sport is a way of spending your leisure time naturally with “man’s best friend”. Sports such as agility, sheepdog trials, fly-ball, and many others enable dog owner and dog to work and play together. But care must be taken with the amount of exercise puppies and young dogs get, as they shouldn't be over-exercised, especially large breeds. Their bodies are growing, so the dog sport chosen should be appropriate to the dog’s developmental stage. Contact with other dogs is of particular benefit to a dog’s development, particularly his social development.

    Dressing

    A dressing serves to protect a wound, to cover an area of the body or to fix a part of the body in position. Materials for dressings include: bandages, cellulose, gauze, cotton batting or similar things. For fixing a limb in position, materials such as splints or cuffs are used.

    Saturday, June 10, 2006

    BRINGING HOME A NEW PUPPY

    BRINGING HOME A NEW PUPPY

    When adopting a new puppy it’s important to prepare your home in anticipation of their arrival. Similar to baby proofing a home, puppy proofing is needed for their safety and your sanity. Puppies are particularly curious and energetic and don't always know what to avoid. The first safety consideration is keeping chemicals & toxins away your puppies reach. Such items may include household cleaners, specific types of plants, alcohol, chocolate, and substances like antifreeze. Antifreeze is particularly dangerous to dogs. Even a small amount can be extremely toxic or fatal for your dog. Dogs & Puppies don't realize the danger, it's up to you to protect them. Another safety concern is electrical & power leads. Try to keep power leads hidden from your dog. Puppies will chew on power leads creating an obvious safety risk. Fragile or breakable items are things to keep an eye out for. An excited puppy can knock a favourite vase or frame off a table with one wag of their tail. Broken glass or ceramics may expose your puppy to injury from sharp edges & the destruction of your valuables can be avoided. It’s a good idea to keep sharp objects stored safely away from your dog. Keep in mind that puppies don't always behave as you wish (even when they become dogs). You may find your puppy outside or on a table if you turn your back for too long. This is another good reason to keep hazardous items stored safely. Some time spent protecting your puppy before their arrival can greatly increase the fun and enjoyment you have with them once they arrive.

    The formative period for a dog occurs in its first year of life. The first few months account for a large part of this development. When puppies are born they are very reliant on their mother. Born with their eyes and ears sealed shut, they huddle near each other and their mother for warmth and food. During the first three weeks, puppies sleep 90 percent of the time and eat 10 percent. Healthy puppies are born pink and firm and gain weight rapidly. During the first month the puppy starts to develop their senses. Their eyes will open, teeth will start to come through and they will begin standing, walking, barking & wagging their tail.

    Puppies begin socialization shortly before their second month. In the beginning they are primarily influenced by their littermates. Through playing and interacting, puppies learn about themselves and their surroundings. This type of learning continues for several months. Puppies are ready to be adopted around 8 to 10 weeks of age. At this point people are influencing them as much if not more than the other puppies. This is a good time to start the basics of training such as house training, as they are starting to gain physical coordination. They will also experience fear for the first time.

    Between three and six months puppies will begin to develop pack behaviour. They will start to see their place within their social system. They will also start to develop their adult teeth and begin teething. Between six & eight months puppies will be influenced primarily by pack/family members & will chew as a way of exploring their territory. Most breeds will physically mature during this period, becoming an adult. Around 24 months (2 years) is the average most breeds will mentally mature.

    Thursday, June 8, 2006

    Do Dogs Feel Love?

    Do Dogs Feel Love?

    We feel tremendous love for our dogs, and our dogs sure seem to love us. But is a dog really capable of emotions? Or are we just projecting our feelings onto our dogs?

    Scientists avoid the subject because part of what sets humans apart from the animals is our ability to experience feelings. To say that animals actually have feelings, in the same way we do, would change everything – perhaps disrupt our entire position and standing in the animal kingdom.

    However, any dog owner knows that dogs love completely and have a greater capacity for love than most people. If one were to describe the main characteristics of a dog, they would have to be:
    1. strong affection
    2. warm attachment
    3. unselfish loyalty and benevolent concern for others

    Wait a minute – those are the Merriam-Webster Dictionary definitions of love. Probably why the author of Dogs Never Lie About Love, Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson writes, “dogs are love.” So there isn’t a question of whether dogs love, the mystery is how they have such an enormous capacity for it. Dogs who are neglected or abused still show love for their human and wag their tails in hope of a little affection.

    Dogs taken from abusive situations hold no grudges toward the human race. A half an ounce of kindness from a new person results in an abundance of affection from the formerly mistreated dog. Humans rarely have the capacity to so completely forgive and love under those circumstances.

    Probably the biggest reason the dog has become man’s best friend is because we know that when it comes to love, a dog can always outdo us. The highest form of love, agape love, which is completely unconditional, is something that people often have to work at or grow into. Agape love seems to come naturally between parent and child, but it’s more difficult between husband and wife, and harder still between friends. To love someone regardless of what wrongs they have done you is very difficult for humans.

    A dog, however, is born with an endless capacity for agape love, and doesn’t even have to work at it. You can be a complete grouch, ignore your dog, and refuse him your love. When you decide you’re ready to be sociable again, your dog doesn’t pay you back by ignoring you too. He’s just happy you’re there. More amazing still, is that the love that dogs and owners feel for each other lasts a lifetime. This is the ideal love humans strive for, but often fail at.

    As Jeffrey Moussaieff Masson so beautifully writes in Dogs Never Lie About Love, “Learning to know somebody intimately is often the beginnings of dislike, sometimes even of contempt. Among humans, love often does not survive a growing acquaintance, but in a dog, love seems to grow with acquaintance, to get stronger, deeper. Even when fully acquainted with all our weaknesses, our treachery, our unkindness, the dog seems to love strongly – and this love is returned by most dog-loving humans. We, too, seem to love our dogs the more we get to know them. The bond grows between us and our dogs.”

    This is why we need dogs. They do something for us that rarely a human companion can do. No matter how much you mess up your life, or how much wrong you do, no matter how many mistakes you make or how often you make them, regardless of your looks, income or social standing, your dog never judges you. He always thinks you are wonderful and loves you with all his heart.

    Saturday, June 3, 2006

    Having a puppy who runs into his crate on command is more than just a convenience - it can keep him

     Having a puppy who runs into his crate on command is more than just a convenience - it can keep him safe, too. For example, if a glass breaks in the kitchen, giving your puppy the "crate" command can keep him away from the broken glass until it has been cleaned up. Before you begin training, check to see that your puppy's crate doesn't slip or rattle against a hard floor. Both things can make a puppy nervous about approaching his crate. If necessary, put an old towel between the crate and your floor to keep it quiet and in one place. Start the training by getting your puppy's attention with a treat and tossing the treat into your puppy's crate. If your puppy leaps in after it, great! If your puppy doesn't rush into the crate right away be patient. After a few times of being rewarded for putting his head into the opening of the crate, your puppy should be more than happy to put one foot in, then two, and then you're on your way. Once you know your pup will go into the crate on his own, start using the cue word as you toss the treat into the crate. Read More...


    Allergic to puppy?

    If you develop an allergy to your puppy you may experience a number of symptoms including watery eyes, a runny nose or difficulty breathing, among others. These symptoms result from contact with your puppy's dander and saliva. Dander is the name for the tiny particles that are released from your puppy's hair and skin. These particles become airborne and stick to any surface they can, including furniture and walls. Your puppy's saliva does the same thing once it dries. If your puppy causes you to sneeze or cough this usually means that you also have an allergy to pollens or molds. You will also have an "allergy tolerance level." This means that a certain amount of allergens in your environment are bearable, and won't cause you an allergic reaction. However, if there are many allergens in your home then your puppy may be your "allergic breaking point." If you can limit your exposure to other allergens you may find that your puppy no longer causes you an allergic reaction. Read More...


    Is a dog's mouth cleaner than a person's mouth?

    Does your puppy lick your face in greeting? Some people like nothing better than being kissed by their puppy while others are uncomfortable with the practice. There are many interpretations of why your puppy might lick your face. It could be out of affection, subservience or to let you know he’s hungry. Most of us have heard it said that a puppy’s mouth is cleaner than a person’s mouth. This is not true. It’s another dog-myth. You may have noticed that some dogs have strange appetites. There are certain dogs who like nothing better than to snack on cat litter. So a dog’s mouth is not necessarily cleaner than a person’s mouth. However, unless he’s just eaten something that offends you there’s no need to avoid your puppy’s kiss. It won’t hurt you – psychologically it may even make you feel better. Read More...


    Dear Dr Kate,

    My 9 month old puppy is always chewing – plants, boxes, you name it. What can I do?

    Puppies chew but when they chew on things you do not want them to chew it becomes a problem. Our Wilson was, and is, a chewer. I have put tabasco on our wicker, boxes and a couple of old suitcases to prevent him from destroying them. It has worked. Many puppies are chewers - one of the ways puppies explore their world is through their mouths. Keeping valuables out of your puppy’s reach and directing his teeth to approved chew toys can also help protect your valuables

    Thursday, June 1, 2006

    Methods of house training

    Methods of house training

    Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).

    When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.

    Puppy in cage Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

    During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

    Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

    Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

    Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

    Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.

    Verbal cues

    Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

    Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

    When an 'accident' happens

    One of the key issues in housebreaking is to follow Rule Number One: If you do not catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish him for it! We do not care what someone else may tell you or what you read, if you find a mess that was left when you were not there, clean it up and forget it.

    Discipline will not help because unless you catch the puppy in the act, he will have no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy has urinated and defecated hundreds of times before he met you. Mom or the breeder always cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before and the pup will not put the punishment, regardless of its form, together with something he has done without incident numerous times before. Especially if he did it more than 30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our children. Unless something was really fun (and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom is not), they are not thinking about what they did in the past. They are thinking about what they can do in the future. At this point in his life a puppy's memory is very, very poor.

    Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault, not the pup's. If you had been watching, you would have noticed the puppy suddenly walking or running around in circles with his nose down smelling for the perfect spot to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent as the taxi cab driver behind you honking immediately when the light changes. The puppy will show the same behavior every time. It may vary a little from pup to pup but they always show their own "pre-potty pattern" before the act.

    The same should be said as to your first reaction when you actually catch them in the act of urinating or defecating. It is your fault, you were not watching for or paying attention to the signals. Do not get mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and without raising your voice sternly say "No." Carry them outside or to their papers. It will help to push their tail down while you are carrying them as this will often help them to stop urinating or defecating any more.

    They are going to be excited when you get them outside or to the papers, but stay there with them a while and if they finish the job, reward them with simple praise like "Good Dog."

    House Training Rule Number One: If you don't catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish him for it!

    In the disciplining of dogs, just like in physics, every action has a reaction and for training purposes these may not be beneficial! If you overreact and severely scold or scare the heck out of a puppy for making what is in your mind a mistake, your training is probably going backwards. With house training this is especially difficult for them to understand as they are carrying out a natural body function. Carried one step farther is the idea of rubbing a puppy'snose into amistake he made, whether you caught him or not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence, please explain to us the difference of rubbing his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the dog were smart enough to figure all of this out, the only logical choice would be to permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment rarely speeds up house training. Often, it makes the dog nervous or afraid every time it needs to go to the bathroom.

    We will give you a perfect example of how this kind of disciplining causes long-term problems between a dog and his owner. A client makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking problem. They are hoping that on physical exam or through some testing we can find a medical reason for the animal's inability to successfully make it through housebreaking. They readily admit their frustration with the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal no problem. We assumed that would be the case and have no intention of charging for those services. In the examination room, the pup is showing a lot more interest in the veterinarian than he is in his owners. The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please kidnap me from them." When the owner reaches down to pet the dog on his head, the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns his head to the side. The dog reacts as if he were going to be hit. What this tells us is that the dog has been punished for making messes in the owners' absence. During this punishment the puppy is not, and we repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what he might have done two hours ago. He is not thinking that he should not make messes in the house. The animal is not even thinking about the messes.

    The classic line that usually goes with this scenario then comes up "When we get home we know he has made a mess because he always sulks or runs and hides!" The dog is not thinking about some mistake he may have made. Rather, the pup has learned that when the people first get home, for some reason he has yet to figure out, they are always in a bad mood and he gets punished. The puppy has decided that maybe he would be better to try to avoid them for awhile so he does try to hide. In this particular case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy, has caused him to fear his owners and this will probably affect their relationship throughout the life of the dog.

    If you want house training to go quickly, regardless of the method you use, spend as much time as possible with your puppy. In an exam room, one of us once listened to a client complain about how he had to take some time off from work for his own mental health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy was not doing too well in the house training department. For us this statement was just too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor, truly loved his puppy. We saw them together everywhere. Still, the problem was that he worked in a downtown office and the pup was home. His work allowed him to get home frequently but not always on a consistent schedule. There would be accidents when he was gone and sometimes he was gone longer than the abilities or the attention span of the puppy.

    The solution was easy. We simply suggested his health and the puppy's training would both do better if he stayed home for a week or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful eye, he was always there at the time when he was needed and in less than seven days the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are not saying there was never another accident, but they were few and far between. In the end, the best of all worlds occurred. The man realized his dog could be trusted, and thereafter, they spent their days together at the man's office.

    Feeding and house training

    The feeding schedule you use can help or hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice that puppies will need to go outside soon after they wake and also within 30 to 40 minutes after eating. Be consistent when you feed the animal so you can predict when they need to relieve themselves. Plan your trips outside around these patterns.

    All of this may seem simple, and it really is. The keys are that it will take time and you must be consistent. And, of course, you must never lose your temper or even get excited.

    Little puppySpontaneous or submissive urination

    Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited. This may be when they first see you, at meeting a new dog, or when they are scared. It is often referred to as submissive or excitement urination. Do not discipline the puppy for this, as it is something they cannot control. Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow this between 4 and 7 months of age.

    Summary

    Your new puppy is home and you have started the house training process. This is just as much a part of training as the "Come" and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes that occur with house training can cause more problems between you and your pet than those encountered with any other form of training. Be patient and stay calm.

    Sunday, May 28, 2006

    Weights - Measurements & Conversions

    Equivalent Measures of Length 1 meter (m) 39.37 inches (in.) 1 centimeter (cm) 0.39 in. 1 millimeter (mm) 0.039 in. 1 yard (yd) 91.44 centimeters (cm) 1 foot (ft) 30.48 cm 1 inch (in.) 2.54 cm

    Household Measures (Approximate) 1 drop 1/20 mL 1 teaspoon 5 mL 1 tablespoon 15 mL 1 cup 250 mL

    Weight and Apothecaries' Equivalents 1 milligram (mg) 1/65 grain (1/60) 1 gram (g) 15.43 grains (15) 1 kilogram (kg) 2.20 pounds (avoirdupois) 1 pound (avoirdupois) 453.6 grams 1 grain (gr) 0.065 gram (60 mg) 1 ounce (1/16 pound) 28.4 grams

    Fluid Equivalents 1 fluid ounce (oz.) 29.57 mL (30) 1 pint (pt.) 16 fl. oz. 473.2 mL (500) 1 pint, In the Imperial system 20 fluid ounces 1 quart (qt.) 946.4 mL (1000) 1 quart, In the Imperial system 40 fluid ounces 1 gallon (gal.) 3785.6 mL (4000) 1 gallon, In the Imperial system 160 fluid ounces

    Metric System Weights and Measures 1 kilogram (kg) 1000 grams (103) 1 milligram (mg) 0.001 gram (10-3) 1 microgram (µg) 0.000001 gram (10-6) 1 liter (L) 1000 mL (103) 1 milliliter (mL) 0.001 L (10-3) 1 microliter (µL) 0.000001 L (10-6) 1 milliliter (ml) 1 cubic centimeter (cc)

    Weight - Unit Conversion Factors Units Given Units Wanted For Conversion Multiply By lb g 453.6 lb kg 0.4536 oz g 28.35 kg lb 2.2046 kg mg 1,000,000 kg g 1,000 g mg 1,000 g µg 1,000,000 mg µg 1,000 mg/g mg/lb 453.6 mg/kg mg/lb 0.4536 µg/kg µg/lb 0.4536 Mcal kcal 1,000 kcal/kg kcal/lb 0.4536 kcal/lb kcal/kg 2.2046 ppm µg/g 1 ppm mg/kg 1 ppm mg/lb 0.4536 mg/kg % 0.0001 ppm % 0.0001 mg/g % 0.1 g/kg % 0.1

    Conversion Formulas

    Gallons into Pounds: Multiply the specific gravity of the liquid by 8.33* (weight in pounds of 1 gallon of water); then multiply this result by the number of gallons, to obtain the weight in pounds.

    Pounds into Gallons: Multiply the specific gravity of the liquid by 8.33* (weight in pounds of 1 gallon of water); then divide the number of pounds by the result, to obtain the volume in gallons.

    Milliliters into Grams: Multiply the specific gravity of the substance by the number of milliliters, to obtain the weight in grams.

    Grams into Milliliters: Dividethe number of grams by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

    Milliliters into Pounds: Multiply the number of milliliters by the specific gravity of the substance; then divide the product by 453.59 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois pound), to obtain the weight in pounds.

    Pounds into Milliliters: Multiply the number of pounds by 453.59 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois pound); then divide the product by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

    Milliliters into Ounces: Multiply the number of milliliters by the specific gravity of the substance; then divide the product by 28.35 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois ounce), to obtain the volume in ounces.

    Ounces into Milliliters: Multiply the number of ounces by 28.35 (equivalent in grams of 1 avoirdupois ounce); then divide the product by the specific gravity of the substance, to obtain the volume in milliliters.

    Grains, Drams, and Ounces into Grams (or mL): 1) Divide the number of grains by 15; or 2) multiply the number of drams by 4; or 3) multiply the number of ounces by 28.35. The result in each case equals the approximated number of grams (or mL).

    Kilograms into Pounds: Multiply the number of kilograms by 2.2046, or multiply the number of kilograms by 2 and add 10% to the product.

    Pounds into Kilograms: Divide the number of pounds by 2.2046, or multiply by 0.4536

    Thursday, May 25, 2006

    Pet Packing May 25, 2006

    Pet Packing May 25, 2006
    Prepare for your travels with your pooch for a fun and safe time.

    Make sure vaccinations are up-to-date, keep medical records and medicines handy, and update the I.D. tag with a cell phone number. Take along plenty of bottled water -- the water at your destination may upset your dog's system. Take a favorite toy. Always keep your dog on a sturdy leash, and carry a picture of your pet in case of loss.

    Wednesday, May 24, 2006

    Evacuation policy for pets backed

    Evacuation policy for pets backed

    House bill requires preparedness offices to protect Fluffy, too

    12:38 AM CDT on Tuesday, May 23, 2006

    Associated Press

    WASHINGTON – A television shot of a little boy losing his dog during Katrina rescue operations was the catalyst for House passage Monday of legislation requiring pets to be considered in future emergency preparedness plans.

    "The dog was taken away from this little boy and to watch his face was a singularly revealing and tragic experience," said Rep. Tom Lantos, D-Calif., sponsor of the Pet Evacuation and Transportation Standards Act. "This legislation was born at that moment."

    The bill, passed 349-24, requires that state and local preparedness offices take into account pet owners, household pets and service animals when drawing up evacuation plans. Offices that fail to do so would not qualify for grants from the Federal Emergency Management Agency.

    Rep. Christopher Shays, R-Conn., with Mr. Lantos a co-chair of the Congressional Friends of Animals Caucus, said an estimated 600,000 animals either died or were left without shelter as a result of Hurricane Katrina. He added that the lack of pet rescue plans also put many pet owners in danger.

    "When asked to choose between abandoning their pets or their personal safety, many pet owners chose to risk their lives," he said.

    The Humane Society of the United States cited a recent poll that found that about half of adults say they would refuse to evacuate if they couldn't take their pets with them.

    Passage of the bill, said Humane Society president Wayne Pacelle, would ensure "that Americans will never again be forced to leave their best friends behind to face imminent danger."

    Sens. Ted Stevens, R-Alaska, and Frank Lautenberg, D-N.J., have introduced similar legislation that also would give the director of FEMA authority to grant funds to state and local agencies for animal preparedness projects, including the building of emergency shelters.

    Monday, May 22, 2006

    Antioxidants

    Antioxidants

    Just like you, your puppy needs excellent nutrition to grow into a healthy adult. He needs high quality food full of the appropriate amounts of vitamins and minerals to develop properly, especially during rapid growth.

    Although there are many supplement products that are supposed to be "good" for your growing puppy, it's not necessary to supplement a complete diet with extra vitamins. In fact, it can be harmful. Never give your puppy any supplements unless advised by your veterinarian to do so. Simply feed a high-quality product that includes antioxidants, and your puppy will get everything he needs.

    To follow is information on some of the most important vitamins and minerals, and why they are so critical to your pup's health. Your puppy's food should include these antioxidants in its formula.

    Vitamin C

    We've known for a long time that Vitamin C is good for us, but do our puppies need it, too? Yes. Your puppy is able to create Vitamin C in his own body and, as a result, for many years it was thought puppies didn't need any more Vitamin C than their body could manufacture. Now we know better.

    Vitamin C is a "water soluble" vitamin, which means if the body gets more than it needs, it simply excretes it. This trait makes it a generally nontoxic vitamin, although suddenly giving your puppy a larger amount than normal could cause digestive upset.

    Vitamin C plays an important role in the formation of collagen, which helps keep your puppy's joints healthy as he grows. It is also recognized as an important anti-stress nutrient. Vitamin C also protects the body against infection and lessens the effects of toxins – all while it boosts the immune system. It's easy to see why this is an important vitamin for your puppy to get everyday.

    Vitamin E

    Another well known antioxidant, Vitamin E, is a workhorse in the body. It helps protect against certain types of cancer while it improves circulation, supports the nervous system and assists in maintaining healthy skin. In the correct amounts, Vitamin E protects cells from damage caused by stress, poor nutrition, pollution, illness or injury. Your pup cannot create Vitamin E in his own body – he must ingest it with his food. Therefore, making sure Vitamin E is a part of your puppy's diet is very important for his long-term health.

    This is a fat-soluble vitamin, which means that the body stores any extra, rather than excreting it. It is possible to give a pup too much, and it can be toxic in very large dosages.

    Trace Minerals

    "Trace" means that the body needs these minerals in tiny amounts. Examples of the more commonly known trace minerals include copper, zinc, and manganese. Although your puppy's body needs only a small amount of these minerals, they are still very important. These minerals are critical to the functioning of a strong immune system. Your puppy's body cannot manufacture these minerals on its own – he must get them from his food.

    Remember, your puppy needs these vitamins and minerals to grow into a healthy adult. However, supplements are not necessary. Simply feed your puppy a quality food that includes antioxidants such as Vitamin C, Vitamin E and trace minerals in its formula.

    Saturday, May 13, 2006

    Good games for your new puppy!

    Good games for your pup

    Good behavior is largely determined by your puppy's self-control. When asked, a good pup sits even if he'd rather jump, resists when he wants to take, and releases when he wants to hold on. Try to do everything you can to notice and encourage that kind of control. One way to do this is to make sure that the games you play with your puppy foster the behaviors and attitudes you want.

    Avoid any game that involves play fighting with your pup (wrestling), competing for possession of an object (tug-of-war), or that has you following your pup's lead (chase!). These can foster combat and competition between human and dog.

    Good games like "hide and seek," "find it" and "beat the clock" promote cooperation and self-control. These kinds of games can also help support your leadership in positive ways by reinforcing the "you direct, your pup responds" relationship during play.

    Hide and seek

    This game is great fun for everyone. Start with one person holding your pup while another hides. Once the person (let's call him Johnny) is hidden, you say, "Where's Johnny? Find Johnny," and you walk with your pup through the house. At first, Johnny may have to make some noise to attract your pup's attention. Once your pup finds him, everyone should praise the pup and tell him how bright he is. Soon your pup will charge around with no encouragement, finding each family member by name.

    Find it

    This is hide and seek with objects, such as beloved toys or biscuits. Have a friend hold your pup while you place the toy or biscuit a few feet away in plain sight. Return to your pup and say, "Where's the biscuit? Find it. Find the biscuit," and let him go. If he bolts to the biscuit, great. If he doesn't, walk him to the biscuit, point it out, then praise him. As he gets better, make the hiding places harder and harder. Pups can learn many toys and objects by name playing this game. This is a wonderful rainy-day game to play with your puppy.

    Beat the clock

    This high-speed game teaches your pup to respond quickly to commands – even when excited or distracted. This is something most pups need help with. Put your pup on a leash. Tell him "OK, playtime!" and start to romp. Speak excitedly and move around – do anything to get him happy and interested. Right in the middle of this play, give him a command he knows well, such as "sit." Immediately become still and silent. Guide your puppy into position if you need to. The moment he sits, restart the game. If you do this correctly, being very happy and excited during the play and absolutely silent and still after commands, your pup will quickly learn how to "turn on" the game by obeying you immediately.

    These kinds of games help you build a strong relationship with your pup because they can improve how he listens and responds to you now and in the future.

    Thursday, May 4, 2006

    Dog Food and Nutrition – Choosing the Right Dog Food

    Dog Food and Nutrition – Choosing the Right Dog Food With so many brands and types of dog food at the market, it might be a daunting task deciding on which type will be right for your dog. For example, a puppy requires different nutrients compared to an adult dog. A working dog has different nutritional needs than a lap dog.

    Pet foods can be distinguished more generally based on criteria of cost, place of purchase, nutrient density (number of calories per pound) and, to a lesser degree, palatability and digestibility. Super premium, premium, and non-premium products can all offer 100% complete and balanced nutrition. The characteristics of products vary from one manufacturer to another.

    Use this list to help decide which type of dog food is best for your pet:
    Specialty or super premium products generally are sold in pet specialty stores and veterinarian offices, carry higher prices, and are usually more energy dense, or have more calories per pound of food. Overfeeding with these products can lead to weight gain faster than products with a lower caloric value. Premium products are traditionally sold at grocery stores but also are available in pet specialty outlets. These types of products are moderately priced. They are generally lower in caloric value compared to super premium products. Check the label. Store brand products are pet foods sold under the store's name as opposed to a national brand name. These foods are designed to offer similar guarantees, ingredients, and performance to the nationally advertised brands at a lower price. Dry food has less moisture and more calories than wet food, so your dog requires less food in order to meet his or her nutritional needs. Canned (wet) food contains more water so it has less calories than dry food. Because canned foods contain more water, it may be difficult for large breed dogs to meet their energy needs before feeling full. Breed size food (large breed vs. small breed) contains nutrient (fat, protein, carbohydrate, minerals, etc.) levels that are appropriate for a specific breed size's metabolism and life stage. For example, some large breed puppy formulas are scientifically formulated to help large breed puppies grow at a normal rate to develop strong bones and joints. Some small breed formulas are developed to provide concentrated nutrition in small, bite-size kibbles that meet a small breed puppy’s high metabolic needs. Although some original puppy formulas are appropriate for puppies of all breed sizes and provide 100% complete and balanced nutrition, they are most appropriate for those puppies that will be neither very small nor very large at maturity. Puppy food is rich in nutrients, such as protein, and calories, which are necessary for growing puppies. These products contain appropriate levels of calcium and phosphorus to help support healthy bone and joint development. Adult food contains the appropriate levels of nutrients that adult dogs need. It is generally not appropriate for pregnant and lactating dogs. Senior food is specifically formulated for dogs over the age of 7. Senior dogs are not necessarily less active or overweight, but they do have different nutritional needs compared to adult dogs. Senior diets should contain increased protein levels to help maintain muscle mass and support a healthy immune system. Weight management food is generally high in protein and fiber and lower in calories and fat content compared to an adult maintenance food. The high protein levels help dogs lose fat and not muscle, while high fiber levels help dogs feel satisfied while losing weight. Performance food is specifically formulated for hardworking and highly active dogs. Homemade dog food runs the risk of containing too much fat for most dogs' needs. Diets high in fat could increase your dog's risk of obesity, high blood pressure, and an elevated heart rate.